Off The Runway and on the Street

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Sadly, many fashion-istas are snickered at when they boldly show their inner creativity in public. So I will take this opportunity to celebrate the original and forward thinking ideas of those budget minded gals. It takes a special person, with a fabulous inner spirit, to wear designer-inspired looks to the market. This proves that someone out there will wear those high style outfits from the runway. The top row are Walmart shoppers and for those wondering, the bottom row is from the 2009-2010 designer runway collections. Next blog I will celebrate the men.

Andrew Gn's Paris Tribute to Louis XV

A Louis XV commode, from Andrew Gn’s Parisian apartment, was the inspiration for his Fall 2010 collection. By his own description, the show was “Modern Rococo” an 18th century look with a 21st century spin. He pulled off this royal look in black, subdued grays, warm browns, with an occasional tasteful splash of yellow, blue, and rust . The black being a consistent and favorite color for most of the European collections this season. Andrew Gn’s show was well designed, had a beautiful fit , and crossed generations in terms of style.

Hussein Chalayan Fails at American Tourism

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Hussein Chalayan’s collection was reported to be inspired by a road trip through the United States. The tour begins in Amish country, then passes down through the south to visit beauty queens and then on to Colorado and the west. My first impression was Chalayan toured the wrong country. Granted the black Amish buggy was part of his influence, but what about the beautiful blue and rose color often seen in the Amish dress? The black dresses on the fashion runway screamed wicked witch, and the hats on the models looked like Darth Vader helmets. When choosing a buggy as inspiration, why not use an antique western stage coach in warm weathered browns and reds? As for a southern beauty queen, his final look was more industrial Dairy Queen. The mottled gray fabric on some of the dresses reminded me of a greasy mechanic coverall. Furthermore the orange fuzzy-fungi-like knitting projectiles attached to the models really should have been returned to the craft store. Personally I enjoy provocative art instillations, but really now who would want to wear an Amish buggy -look to lunch with friends ?

D&G Men (Part two) Hiding Money and Saving Heads

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Part two of the D&G Men’s collection has a different flavor than the street thug/country look of part one. Clearly in my opinion, the beautifully tailored jackets are a spin into a direction reaching back as far as the essence of the Regency era 1790-1820. For menswear, post the French revolution, frippery and bright colors gave way to cut and tailoring as an indicator quality and money. Flaunting wealth was in poor taste and no one wanted to imitate what the French aristocrats lost their heads over. The Regency era were the roots to the modern suit. The other time used by D&G as influence for this show was the financial depression of the 1930’s. This followed the ostentatious spending and flaunting of money of the infamous roaring ‘20’s. It’s easy to see the comparisons and why D&G chose this direction for part of their collection .

D&G Men (Part one) Country Peasant and City Thug

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As I did with the women’s collection, I’m dividing the D&G men's collection into a part one and two. Beginning here with the street thug look and country peasant, the inspiration was 1900-1930’s, and movies reflecting that look were projected on a screen behind the runway models. The overall collection was very wearable, low key and obviously not over-designed. Having a peasant look collection is clearly a statement and reflection about the European and world economy. D&G proves-it's good to look poor, but only if you are rich enough to afford it .

D&G Smoke in their Eyes- Part 2

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Yesterday's blog was on the D&G hits, today the flops. In my opinion the D&G runway mistakes ran the gamut from tragic and panned Sophia Loren movies to a kitschy Christmas sweaters. Although the influences and references were the same for the whole collection, all I can assume is D&G's eyes were cloudy when they allowed these boo boos on the runway. My best description of these tragic looks are : a nun; a raped woman; pin up girls; and alpine fat suits. Makes you wonder what D&G were smoking when they came up with these outfits.

Dolce and Gabbana Runway Is La Dolce Vita Part 1

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D&G’s 2010 women’s collection was so rich with hits and misses that it will take two blog days to discuss the runway photos. Starting first with what I feel are the the hit looks - Think Italian movies circa 1940 to 1960. Much like a Frederico Fellini masterpiece, the collection was wild combinations of unexpected surprises. Sophia Loren (minus her long-line corset bra) could step into all of the outfits from the top row. As with most of the European collections, black was the predominate color at D&G. Hemlines were shorter for the younger set, and longer for those seeking a more sophisticated look.

The Royal Treatment For Alexander McQueen

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In a collection befitting "the McQueen", Alexander’s last collection was the perfect requiem. His amazing talent will be greatly missed in the fashion world. The Fall 2010 collection only had 16 pieces and was presented in a low key private event. The inspiration for the collection by his own words were "The old masters and Byzantine art". Personally I found the direction and influence to be mostly Tudor-Elizabethan (in contrast to Byzantine) and all very royal. The collection was a vast departure in inspiration from what was being shown on the runway by other designers- Not quite sure if this was a clue to his depression or absolute brilliance. Either way it was an amazing collection.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2010 In Closing

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Wrapping up my final comments on MB-Fashion Week for Fall 2010 - overall I feel it was fantasy filled with heaps of optimism. As you can see above- there is a complete variety of looks and inspiration. There was an outfit for everyone -throw everything out there on the runway and see what sticks.

Disasters at Ungaro Spring and Fall 2010

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Does Emanuel Ungaro know who their client is? For my blog today I won't be commenting on historical inspiration, it would be a waste of time. Additionally I’m taking no prisoners at the House of Ungaro-it’s time to clean out from top to bottom.

When Ungaro hired Lindsy Lohan, one would think the fashion house was hoping to capture the affluent, prescription toting, American club going, party girl look. If not what was their expectation?

The latest news to hit the runway is the fashion house has cut all ties with Lohan as designer. Most importantly it was stated, she was not a part of the Fall 2010 collection and inspiration. (The top rows are photos from the Fall 2010 collection.) Without Lindsey at the helm, the collection was produced under the guidance of design director Estrella Archs. In my opinion the latest show was even a bigger disaster than the Spring 2010 collection that Estrella designed with Lindsey (bottom row of photos). At least for the Spring collection, the clothes fit. Granted the heart shape pasties were cheesy burlesque inspired and not sophisticated –but before every fashionista out there cast stones at Lindsey- remember the Fall 2010 collection was not designed by her -and is a disaster as well.

Understanding one’s client or least design direction - is make it or break it knowledge for any company. Learning is a process of failures, so I’m looking forward to the Winter 2010 collection.

1920's meets the 2010's

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This particular grouping from MBFW 2010 was a sumptuous throw-back to the sporty day-looks of the 1920’s. There is a comfortable chic “I can go anywhere in this” feeling to all these outfits. The toupe, soft gray, tan, and rust color choices added to the over all appeal of these looks. A fresh departure from the stark black that I have written about on the European runway.

The 1980's Are Having A 1960's Acid Trip

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If I was designing a futuristic comedy TV show I might be inspired by these looks from the MBFashionWeek Fall 2010 . Honestly this group is not for the average person. The flash of bright colors are fun but-yellow tights? I'm feeling a Devo meets Talking Heads meets a 1960's acid moment of this culled collection from the various designers. In my opinion these are one time wear outfits- Great for stage performances or when you are desperate for attention. Photo research- bottom row three photos on the right -Devo-Jim Morrison-Talking Heads.

My Little Pony Concubine

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These unflattering shoes from the runway, are a cross between horse hooves and Chinese foot binding, but you don't need me to point this out- the reference photos say it all. When these shoes are excavated 2000 years from now, future civilizations will discuss the advancement of women in our culture and have a good laugh . The designers responsible for these torture devices should- lose a turn, and go to straight to jail.

To the Mars and Beyond -MB Fashion Week

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My comparative study on the MB Fashion Week continues with the Jetson’s meet Star Wars look in the workplace for Fall 2010. Once again I culled one outfit from each of the designers collections to create the overall look for you to enjoy. In a world where Hans Solo could take you to work and Obi-Wan might be your spiritual instructor, you will feel right home with this grouping. Should an intergalactic war break out, you will have great style , feel comfortable, and be ready to run.

Since I like to point out the roots of these collections in my blog, the simplicity of futuristic designs are based out of the medieval /dark ages . However unlike most of European collections for 2010 "across the pond", the MB Fashion Week went to fantasy- high tech -Sci-Fi with their version.

Avatar in Fashion

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The Mercedes Fashion Week was interesting in that most of the designers all had a similar look-not all of them, but most. So instead of commenting on each individual collection I chose an outfit/dress from each collection and put it into an overall look . It was much easier to see the entire Fall 2010 direction that way . Today I have put together in my opinion the "Avatar" collection from the various designers. As I said earlier there was a definite influence from sci-fi and film at MBFW. Even with the sci-fi influence the Greek draping is apparent here. Obviously the color blue is predominate in this group -a soothing color. For the most part I think these dresses were "over-designed". Simplicity is a better direction when using busy prints and saturated color. The green dress allowed the sequin beading pattern to be the statement not ruffles and draping.

Mercedes Fashion Week Fall 2010 Salutes The Future-Past

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At the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week here last month, I felt there was an amazing collection of interesting pieces across the board. It appeared as though all the designers were inspired by the cinema and a sci-fi look -with warrior inspiration . The skirts were shorter than what is being shown on the European runways. However there were many uneven hemlines (diagonal, short in front and longer in the back) to be seen, reflecting the ups and downs of the stock market. Overall the look and tone of MB Week made me feel there was some hope for harmony in the world. The futuristic one shouldered Grecian inspiration was a nice change from the Dark Ages-Medieval warrior tone Europe is showing.

WWD Reports on Fall 2010

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See what happens when you take a break from the runway for one day! I'm planning on writing about The Mercedes Benz Fashion Week this morning, but first I had to interject my opinion on the WWD announcement of their picks for the top ten designers for the Fall 2010 with these photos. Well all I can say is that WWD is doing a great disservice to all the store buyers out there trying to decide what their customer will be buying in the Fall. This explains why retail sales are down. The top row photos I feel are some of the worst from those collections. The bottom row at least shows some promise. Although I feel that these ten designers had interesting pieces in their collections ...I leave that up to you to judge who your favorites are for 2010. WWD top ten- Balenciaga, Burberry Prorsum,Celine, Chanel, Dolce & Gabanna, Christian Dior, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, MichaelKors,Prada.

The Weaker Sex Or The Tortured Sex?

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Taking a break today from the runway fashion to reflect on female corsets. Just looking at these photos explains why women were considered the weaker sex. How could their liver and kidneys even function let alone try to eat ? No worry about muffin top with this crowd. However I must admit Dita Von Tease looks great in her corset (lower right photo) I don't think my waist was that small when I was five. Okay so maybe for five minutes it would be fun to see my waist that small-but really only five minutes, I enjoy eating too much.

Corset evolution has been happening for thousands of years, at least since the time of the Minoans- and that would be in and about 1700BC. Yes that's right BC. The Minoan artwork also depicts men as having tiny waists -so they too had a passion for corsets. Seems even before mirrors, humans had an image problem. If you haven't read my blog about male corsets check out "Corsets aren't they Dandy?" from last week.

As for today, if you want to smooth out the bumps and lumps, thank goodness for stretch in girdles. Wearing one of these 'sucker-uppers" can make a world of difference in how you look in your clothes. I'm am only going to promote one brand here, since it is made in the USA and I support jobs kept here . No-Nonsense offers several good choices that are worth trying. One style they offer even has a little butt lift. Best of all No Nonsense is very well priced, and they are available online or at the drug store.

Hermes Fall 2010 visits- A Clockwork Orange

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Upon first glance at the Hermes show, I found the collection to be disturbingly reminiscent of the punks in Stanley Kubrick's film A Clockwork Orange, as seen by the silhouette photos to the right. However that aside, I really enjoyed the collection, which I'm not sure what that says about me. The middle photo with the mixture of the brown vest over the black suit really caught my eye. The warrior theme Fall 2010 continues with Hermes- a good example is the first photo on the left, showing the large armor -like leather shoulder detail.

Chanel Fall 2010 Meets Siberian Nomads

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Chanel’s Fall 2010 runway has a nomad -warrior influence. Before I comment on the overall look, I will say I’m never a big fan of using real fur, not in an age when we have wonderful fakes and warm alternatives. With that said I will move on to the collection. For this runway I chose what I felt were the three best and the four worst in the collection. The top row ensembles I thought were great interpretations of a Siberian nomad look– very wearable. However the bottom row all I can say is -really? They all look like sewing projects gone bad and belong in a cave somewhere. For the period influence look to the upper and lower right for the photos.

Gianfranco Ferre 2010 Looks to the Past and Future

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The Gianfranco Ferre 2010 runway had a few great looks, and a few that should have stayed in the closet. The top row displays my favorite silhouettes from the collection, with clear medieval-forties–futuristic overtones. Notice the chainmail feel to the gold gown ? The period research to the upper and lower right reflects some of the influence. The bottom row in my opinion looks like two leather sacks and a bathrobe -but still exhibiting the medieval-forties flavor .

Corsets-Aren't They Dandy ?

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Not just for women, male corsetry has been around since the days of Beau Brummell and the "Dandy" look he created. Noted for being a fine dresser he wore corsets to help accentuate his chest and define his waist. Today corsets, (Galliano is showing corsets on the runway for men) Spanx, and compression garments all offer a slimmer and trimmer shape. Some waist trimmers claim to remove- six to eight inches. Compression garments are mandatory for post surgery patients, but also work for back and hernia support. For costuming some male leads, I’ve used compression garments with great success. Mostly used to help slim away the dreaded muffin top or a small beer belly. It’s not a miracle but does make a tremendous difference in smoothing out the spare tire.

"Stiletto, I look at it more as an attitude as opposed to a high-heeled shoe." Lita Ford

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Before Christian Louboutin at $500-$850 for pumps, there was Louis XIV. He started the trend in the French court by wearing his shoes-with both the soles and heels painted red. Some of his shoe heels were as high as five inches, and had battle scenes painted on them. The “Louis heels” caught on quickly throughout the court. So he made a ruling that it was illegal for anyone to wear heels taller than his, and only nobility could wear red heels. The term to be “red heeled” refers to nobility. After the French Revolution Napoleon banned the Louis heel . Marie Antoinette however was taken to the guillotine in her two inch heels. To which I say : Methinks you should be careful whom you piss off when wearing your high heels.

The world is but a canvas to the imagination. Thoreau

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Generally costume budgets are too slim to purchase the real deal. So we will create a look that sells the high end look either by constructing or purchasing. As for the individual out there on a budget an example from the Fall 2010 Prada runway is showing chainmail over a white dress. I found this chainmail and white turtleneck dress online for under $100. With a little foot work you can find more choices, but this is an example of having the “look” without the big bucks.

Fashion Has To Do With Ideas, The Way We Live, What Is Happening -Chanel

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Fashion has always been influenced by society, and visa versa. The comparative study of past meets future, is fascinating. It never ceases to amuse me watching racks of period clothing being pulled by fashion house assistants to be analyzed and copied. The military look continues on the runway for Fall 2010. This time the influences are from several different wars throughout history. Prada is showing futuristic and medieval with the shiny grey ensemble and chainmail against white. Chanel’s military look has Russian overtones. Galliano's runway has Berber Zouave for his men’s line, and for the women RTW military jackets over sheer skirts. Gareth Pugh, D&G, Burberry are all showing military for men.