Yegor Zaitsev Moscow RFW 2010

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Today a look at Yegor Zaitsev's collection from Russian Fashion Week 2010 in Moscow. His collection was completely wild and surreal. However I would say the outfits have limited use in everyday life. Looking at his runway show was like watching a Tim Burton movie. I thought about all the places it would be wrong to wear these outfits : work, post office,  bank, dinner, marketing, gardening. This leaves trolling the club scene and rudely taking up the whole dance floor. Perhaps the best use would be a Halloween costume. Your closet might need enlarging for one of the designs. Be careful of the sharp points assaulting you. A person might be surprised enough to cut up the outfit in self defense.

Moscow Runway 2010 Ivan Ipotov Collection

Today I will discuss Ivan Ipotov's collection for both men and women which was presented at the Moscow Fashion Week 2010 . To be fair, my knowledge of Russian history, economics, and imagery has a fairly limited range. I know a bit on the late 19th century to present day-and even then it's not in depth. Without experiencing and living the life, it's hard to grasp the soul and heart beat of the people. So I will comment from a my American point a view.

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There was no apparent Russian historical reference in Ipotov's collection that I could see . His men's line had many interesting ensembles and suits and they are all very wearable. What was very different from the U.S. and European runway were the models. For his men's collection the models were not refined or pretty, but they are good looking and real. (Many photos were cropped at the head by the photographer) In some ways it way great to see what the collection looks like on real people. Overall the stage production and direction lacked excitement, sophistication and elegance.

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The women's collection was very ho hum to me. Perhaps designing women's clothes are not his strong point. The line looked dated and boring. His theme included boxing glove teddy bears carried by the models. These silly props added to the novice look of the show. As for the female models I thought they had far better figures than any European or U.S. models. Their weight was perhaps five to ten pounds more than any model we are familiar with. In my opinion this made the dresses look much better. As with the men's line, it was nice to see what the clothes look like on a real person. The models all had a fresh and natural look, but almost too natural. The lack luster hair and make-up didn't do anything to help sell the outfits.

Phillip Lim Fall 2010 Men in Uniform

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In my opinion Phillip Lim's Fall 2010 collection took the street level uniform, and gave it a slick runway look. Personally as a costume designer, it was fun to see this industrial look on the runway. I've pondered how the character uniforms I have designed would look in a fashion spread. Occasionally, I have pictured pieces purchased from the local surplus store, such as cast off wool linings zipped out of an old trench coat, on a fashion runway much as Lim did- (bottom row left photo). A vintage postal jacket or a fur collared pilot's jacket all have classic lines that translate to the fashion runway. He employed both of these looks. The Lim collection had many interesting pieces, but one must be careful how they are worn as a look. For example: the striped wool suit that looks like a cross between an Indian trading blanket and a prison uniform. (Top row left photo) Here in the U.S., some southern states still use the humorous striped prison uniforms. However, when Lim's striped suit is broken up it into separates, it no longer retains the prison feel (bottom row).

For this collection, perhaps Lim's influence came from the French safety ad, featuring Karl Lagerfield posed in a yellow reflective vest and black bow tie (bottom row right). One can understand how this might bring couture status to what a crossing guard would normally wear. As a complete ensemble, many of the outfits look as though they belong in an industrial sci-fi movie, so my suggestion is to indulge in a Lim look, one piece at a time.

The Ultimate Fashion Diva

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My last blog was about the world's most expensive dresses and shoes. Now I will look at a totally different option. Today I salute The Uniform Project (theuniformproject.com). Sheena Matheikin wore the same little black dress for 365 days. Her daily look was augmented with layers, accessories, vintage, handmade and donated. For cleaning purposes, there were seven of the same dress used for this experiment. The idea started as a fundraiser, with the ultimate goal to provide money for educational expenses to children living in the slums of India.

The project started May 1 2009, and is now complete. Sheena has raised over $94,614, which will be used to send 262 kids to school. The amount continues to grow as there are still funds being raised by various activities and auctions relating to this project. What I found most interesting about this brilliant idea, was how creative the outfits became over time using this same dress. Throughout the year, she traveled to different countries and the outfits would then reflect influences from the area and region. The photos I have included above, show just a tiny fraction of the hundreds of creative looks. It's truly amazing what one garment can become. Here's the two minute video showing all the looks - www.vimeo.com/11113046

Now those $4700 Valentino shoes I blogged about (What Silly Fools We Mortals Be 5/14/10 ) wearing everyday for a year, seems rather boring in comparison.

What Silly Fools We Mortals Be

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Today is a personal rant about stupidity. I need, I must have, I can’t live without. All phrases used when lusting after the latest fashion trend. Honestly, none of us need much more than some bits of clothing to keep warm in the winter, and a little sun protection for the summer.

On a whim I searched out for the ultimate nouveau riche decadence : The most expensive dress, boots, and shoes in the world. Personally, for the privilege and status of wearing these items, I would want a jaw- dropping knockout. Certainly a "look" that would reflect the price I paid. (Top row from left to right) The spider-web dress worn to the Spider-Man premiere-has the price tag of 5 million pounds, and in this case, all those pounds couldn't buy any class! The white dress named "Nightingale of Kuala Lumpur" at least comes with an exotic name for the price tag of $30 million. The dress looks hand washable too; hard to trust the cleaners with this one. The diamonds are from the Middle Eastern jeweler Mouawad. Most expensive boots: $14,000 Manolo alligator skin boots. I found a similar look for $100 by J Renee Farrah, just in case $14,000 is out of your price range. Most expensive shoes: Valentino black lace pumps found at Neiman Marcus for $4,700 , a bargain next to the boots. If you wore them everyday for a year, they would amortize out to $12.87 a day. That's just about three Frappucinos. Definitely a bargain when you think how much weight you would lose skipping those daily drinks. Of course you could buy 47 pairs of shoes at $100 a pop instead. The bottom row left photo-I’m sorry but if you have a tattoo of your favorite designer logo on your person, you should receive a lifetime designer discount. It is an advertisement after all, even if it’s a skanky one like the Burberry shorts worn by the woman (bottom row right side). Maybe Burberry would do us all a favor and pay her to stay out of their shorts.

Alexander McQueen Men's Fall 2010 - The Knight of a Thief

Alexander McQueen’s 2010 men’s collection, (sadly his last,) was certainly thought provoking. The look in my opinion, is a cross between a medieval knight and a well-dressed bank heist. In the real world, some of the prints are very interesting, especially if worn as a separate. In a fantasy costume world, the balaclavas are creepy, which is great if you are planning a robbery. I have used them on actors for that purpose. If you are desperate for a similar complete outfit at a fraction of the cost, the Cabelas hunting catalogue has matching camo tops, bottoms and balaclavas. Of course if you are arrested, you can't claim you are wearing an Alexander McQueen label .

Marc Jacobs Men's Fall Collection 2010

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Marc Jacobs Men’s Fall 2010 Collection – The influence is : former club kid-takes to the working world. In the blurred world of androgyny, these outfits look like they are a collection from a thrift shop pile. Please help me here –do men really want hips? The cut of the harem sweat-pants ( on left) are dreadful for men and women (unless you are going for the "I Dream of Jeannie" look). Did Marc Jacobs have a tough time deciding between culottes and pants for men (right photo)? So many questions , so little time. I’m not even going to bother with any historical reference. Salvation Army, please expect Marc Jacobs to return the clothes soon.