(Click on photo to enlarge)
In my opinion Phillip Lim's Fall 2010 collection took the street level uniform, and gave it a slick runway look. Personally as a costume designer, it was fun to see this industrial look on the runway. I've pondered how the character uniforms I have designed would look in a fashion spread. Occasionally, I have pictured pieces purchased from the local surplus store, such as cast off wool linings zipped out of an old trench coat, on a fashion runway much as Lim did- (bottom row left photo). A vintage postal jacket or a fur collared pilot's jacket all have classic lines that translate to the fashion runway. He employed both of these looks. The Lim collection had many interesting pieces, but one must be careful how they are worn as a look. For example: the striped wool suit that looks like a cross between an Indian trading blanket and a prison uniform. (Top row left photo) Here in the U.S., some southern states still use the humorous striped prison uniforms. However, when Lim's striped suit is broken up it into separates, it no longer retains the prison feel (bottom row).
For this collection, perhaps Lim's influence came from the French safety ad, featuring Karl Lagerfield posed in a yellow reflective vest and black bow tie (bottom row right). One can understand how this might bring couture status to what a crossing guard would normally wear. As a complete ensemble, many of the outfits look as though they belong in an industrial sci-fi movie, so my suggestion is to indulge in a Lim look, one piece at a time.
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