Sheer Mistakes On The Celebrity Red Carpet

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In my blog: Valentino -Hope Springs Eternal 2010, I said "Already I have visions of inebriated celebrities fueling TMZ or the cover of Enquirer by letting it all hang out."

Clearly Liza Minelli (on the left) needs help on how to wear sheers . Wearing the silicone stick-on bra under sheer fabric does not work-ever . It is not meant to be seen. The ankle boots under the sheer pants look like black socks and make her ankle look heavy. Liza has been in the business too long to make these kinds of mistakes. With modern technology at our finger tips, it's easy to take a quick photo with your camera flash-on and double check how you will look. (When the flash is on, it will reveal sheerness that is not apparent to the naked eye).

Jessica Szohr looked fantastic and wore the sheer look with class. (photo on the right) Perhaps Liza could lessons from Jessica.

Slava Zaitsev Fall/Winter 2010 Turbans and Tweeds

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Slava Zaitsev obviously has a flare for drama. From what I can see, his 2010 collection for men and women has elements of Lawrence of Arabia, Turkish Whirling Dervish, Dior's New Look 1948, 1950's chunky tweeds and large buttons, and dramatic 1930's turban hats. (see bottom row middle to right five photos)

With the men's line, although mostly monochromatic in tone, the layers were well put together, and very appealing . Slava's women's line, the loose fitting chunky tweeds, add weight onto the body frame. I would prefer to see them used in more flattering and fitted silhouettes. But I live in weight obsessed, sunny California not Russia.

Yegor Zaitsev Moscow RFW 2010

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Today a look at Yegor Zaitsev's collection from Russian Fashion Week 2010 in Moscow. His collection was completely wild and surreal. However I would say the outfits have limited use in everyday life. Looking at his runway show was like watching a Tim Burton movie. I thought about all the places it would be wrong to wear these outfits : work, post office,  bank, dinner, marketing, gardening. This leaves trolling the club scene and rudely taking up the whole dance floor. Perhaps the best use would be a Halloween costume. Your closet might need enlarging for one of the designs. Be careful of the sharp points assaulting you. A person might be surprised enough to cut up the outfit in self defense.

Moscow Runway 2010 Ivan Ipotov Collection

Today I will discuss Ivan Ipotov's collection for both men and women which was presented at the Moscow Fashion Week 2010 . To be fair, my knowledge of Russian history, economics, and imagery has a fairly limited range. I know a bit on the late 19th century to present day-and even then it's not in depth. Without experiencing and living the life, it's hard to grasp the soul and heart beat of the people. So I will comment from a my American point a view.

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There was no apparent Russian historical reference in Ipotov's collection that I could see . His men's line had many interesting ensembles and suits and they are all very wearable. What was very different from the U.S. and European runway were the models. For his men's collection the models were not refined or pretty, but they are good looking and real. (Many photos were cropped at the head by the photographer) In some ways it way great to see what the collection looks like on real people. Overall the stage production and direction lacked excitement, sophistication and elegance.

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The women's collection was very ho hum to me. Perhaps designing women's clothes are not his strong point. The line looked dated and boring. His theme included boxing glove teddy bears carried by the models. These silly props added to the novice look of the show. As for the female models I thought they had far better figures than any European or U.S. models. Their weight was perhaps five to ten pounds more than any model we are familiar with. In my opinion this made the dresses look much better. As with the men's line, it was nice to see what the clothes look like on a real person. The models all had a fresh and natural look, but almost too natural. The lack luster hair and make-up didn't do anything to help sell the outfits.

Phillip Lim Fall 2010 Men in Uniform

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In my opinion Phillip Lim's Fall 2010 collection took the street level uniform, and gave it a slick runway look. Personally as a costume designer, it was fun to see this industrial look on the runway. I've pondered how the character uniforms I have designed would look in a fashion spread. Occasionally, I have pictured pieces purchased from the local surplus store, such as cast off wool linings zipped out of an old trench coat, on a fashion runway much as Lim did- (bottom row left photo). A vintage postal jacket or a fur collared pilot's jacket all have classic lines that translate to the fashion runway. He employed both of these looks. The Lim collection had many interesting pieces, but one must be careful how they are worn as a look. For example: the striped wool suit that looks like a cross between an Indian trading blanket and a prison uniform. (Top row left photo) Here in the U.S., some southern states still use the humorous striped prison uniforms. However, when Lim's striped suit is broken up it into separates, it no longer retains the prison feel (bottom row).

For this collection, perhaps Lim's influence came from the French safety ad, featuring Karl Lagerfield posed in a yellow reflective vest and black bow tie (bottom row right). One can understand how this might bring couture status to what a crossing guard would normally wear. As a complete ensemble, many of the outfits look as though they belong in an industrial sci-fi movie, so my suggestion is to indulge in a Lim look, one piece at a time.

The Ultimate Fashion Diva

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My last blog was about the world's most expensive dresses and shoes. Now I will look at a totally different option. Today I salute The Uniform Project (theuniformproject.com). Sheena Matheikin wore the same little black dress for 365 days. Her daily look was augmented with layers, accessories, vintage, handmade and donated. For cleaning purposes, there were seven of the same dress used for this experiment. The idea started as a fundraiser, with the ultimate goal to provide money for educational expenses to children living in the slums of India.

The project started May 1 2009, and is now complete. Sheena has raised over $94,614, which will be used to send 262 kids to school. The amount continues to grow as there are still funds being raised by various activities and auctions relating to this project. What I found most interesting about this brilliant idea, was how creative the outfits became over time using this same dress. Throughout the year, she traveled to different countries and the outfits would then reflect influences from the area and region. The photos I have included above, show just a tiny fraction of the hundreds of creative looks. It's truly amazing what one garment can become. Here's the two minute video showing all the looks - www.vimeo.com/11113046

Now those $4700 Valentino shoes I blogged about (What Silly Fools We Mortals Be 5/14/10 ) wearing everyday for a year, seems rather boring in comparison.

What Silly Fools We Mortals Be

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Today is a personal rant about stupidity. I need, I must have, I can’t live without. All phrases used when lusting after the latest fashion trend. Honestly, none of us need much more than some bits of clothing to keep warm in the winter, and a little sun protection for the summer.

On a whim I searched out for the ultimate nouveau riche decadence : The most expensive dress, boots, and shoes in the world. Personally, for the privilege and status of wearing these items, I would want a jaw- dropping knockout. Certainly a "look" that would reflect the price I paid. (Top row from left to right) The spider-web dress worn to the Spider-Man premiere-has the price tag of 5 million pounds, and in this case, all those pounds couldn't buy any class! The white dress named "Nightingale of Kuala Lumpur" at least comes with an exotic name for the price tag of $30 million. The dress looks hand washable too; hard to trust the cleaners with this one. The diamonds are from the Middle Eastern jeweler Mouawad. Most expensive boots: $14,000 Manolo alligator skin boots. I found a similar look for $100 by J Renee Farrah, just in case $14,000 is out of your price range. Most expensive shoes: Valentino black lace pumps found at Neiman Marcus for $4,700 , a bargain next to the boots. If you wore them everyday for a year, they would amortize out to $12.87 a day. That's just about three Frappucinos. Definitely a bargain when you think how much weight you would lose skipping those daily drinks. Of course you could buy 47 pairs of shoes at $100 a pop instead. The bottom row left photo-I’m sorry but if you have a tattoo of your favorite designer logo on your person, you should receive a lifetime designer discount. It is an advertisement after all, even if it’s a skanky one like the Burberry shorts worn by the woman (bottom row right side). Maybe Burberry would do us all a favor and pay her to stay out of their shorts.

Alexander McQueen Men's Fall 2010 - The Knight of a Thief

Alexander McQueen’s 2010 men’s collection, (sadly his last,) was certainly thought provoking. The look in my opinion, is a cross between a medieval knight and a well-dressed bank heist. In the real world, some of the prints are very interesting, especially if worn as a separate. In a fantasy costume world, the balaclavas are creepy, which is great if you are planning a robbery. I have used them on actors for that purpose. If you are desperate for a similar complete outfit at a fraction of the cost, the Cabelas hunting catalogue has matching camo tops, bottoms and balaclavas. Of course if you are arrested, you can't claim you are wearing an Alexander McQueen label .

Marc Jacobs Men's Fall Collection 2010

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Marc Jacobs Men’s Fall 2010 Collection – The influence is : former club kid-takes to the working world. In the blurred world of androgyny, these outfits look like they are a collection from a thrift shop pile. Please help me here –do men really want hips? The cut of the harem sweat-pants ( on left) are dreadful for men and women (unless you are going for the "I Dream of Jeannie" look). Did Marc Jacobs have a tough time deciding between culottes and pants for men (right photo)? So many questions , so little time. I’m not even going to bother with any historical reference. Salvation Army, please expect Marc Jacobs to return the clothes soon.

Creating Your Autumn Wardrobe

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You can have the latest Valentino runway look at a fraction of the cost . The red dress was shown for the Autumn 2010 runway. If you would like to create your own version, try a pattern from Butterick, Vogue or McCalls (center and right) to design your own red dress . Don’t know how to make bias ruffles to add onto a pattern without? Here are the directions:

vintage sewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-07.html

As for the wool for your dress, most fabric store won’t have wool in for a couple of months –try Trim Fabric –trimfabric.com . The company has red wool on sale for 9.95 a yard. For under $30 you could create this dress.

Valentino Red Hot Autumn 2010

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The Valentino Fall 2010 collection showed a glimmer of light shining in the direction of glamour , which is what the house is known for. Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pier Paolo Piccioli reined in the ruffles to put on a collection that was both sophisticated and youthful. The long red dress , top row left side, was spectacular and understated at the same time. The designing duo used ruffles in a complimentary and balanced manner here. No ruffled French poodles in-sight.

The bottom row was my least favorite from the collection because the creations were either out of balance or dumpy looking. The black dress second front, wraps across the front revealing the model's upper thigh in an unflattering way. If done correctly, that look can be sexy. However, if the cut is unattractive on a 6’2” size 2 model, one can only imagine how it will be on a young average 5’5” size 6 women. As for historical reference the photos on the bottom right shows 1880 and 1930, two eras locked in financial depressions. Both used ruffles generously as a cost effective detail, instead of lavish beading, lace, and trim.

Valentino- Make it Your Own for Spring

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The lace dress on the left is from the Spring 2010 Valentino runway. Working on a tight budget? Try these options- The middle photo is a dress from Urban Outfitters, but it looks as though the fit isn't great. The dress middle right, is a Butterick pattern number 4443 (hem shorter to match Valentino). Buy some interesting lace curtains at your local vintage store and make your own dress from them. Yes -that's what I said-buy curtains. Scarlet O'Hara's famous green dress was made out of curtains just in case you missed "Gone With The Wind".

Valentino -Hope Springs Eternal 2010

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After the abrupt firing of Alessandra Facchinetti last Spring, Valentino handed the reins of design over to Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pier Paolo Piccioli . The inspiration for this Spring collection was ethereal princess – a look that will appeal to a younger generation. First I will start with the positive: I liked everything on the top row, assuming the clientele who purchase these confections will wear nude body stockings under the fabulous sheer fabrics and lace. Already I have visions of inebriated celebrities fueling TMZ or the cover of Enquirer by letting it all hang out.

Overall I thought the collection was an overload of similar colors that are neither here, nor there. Additionally it’s a shame the models were told not to smile; only spoiled and pouty princesses don’t smile. Perhaps that’s who they were hoping to appeal to.

As far as the bottom row, ruffles used carefully can be beautiful and elegant the way a princess should look. But instead, many pieces in the collection came across as underage beauty queens (see the colorful photo bottom left in case you can’t find). This grey mess second from the left looks like a French poodle at a canine contest. For Chuiri and Piccioli, this was their first Spring collection at Valentino. I’m looking forward to commenting on their Fall 2010 collection.

Runway Predictions for 2011

Fashion direction has always hinged on government, economy, politics, and religion. With ten years into the new century, there has been a complete shift in the way business is done. The world has access to hyper-speed communication such as Twitter, and information that moves around the globe in minutes, instantly showing what direction the masses will gravitate towards. As for fashion designers, they must discern accurate social influences one year in advance. Six months later, a runway collection is presented, with the hope of course, it will click with the current social scene. Just a mere twenty five years ago, it would take an social idea or direction between two and twenty years to move around the globe. With that knowledge, it's quite understandable why fashion direction has taken on so many different looks this season. Skirts up, then down , military, medieval, 30's depression era, 1980's, bright colors, dark colors, you think of it, and it will show up. Worldwide economy is linked as much locally as it is globally. For example, California as an independent state is the eighth largest economy in the world. How the state is financially managed by government is very important to the United States and to the world. As for fashion, California is a media center and drives many trends. If I was gathering inspiration to design a Spring/Summer 2011 line, my small sampling of inspiration for social direction today it would read as follows: The world stock markets plunged amid the European announcement to bailout the Greek economy with $ 141b. The central bank in China has announced further tightening to slow the surging economy. Some private economists are predicting the American economy will show growth in the fourth quarter, while Europe’s economy is expected to remain in a recession through the end of 2010. The war in the Middle East continues with no solid signs of ending. There is civil unrest in Thailand and Greece, with both countries rioting against their government for different reasons. In film, Alice in Wonderland is currently the popular movie -fantasy genre. Robin Hood is about to be released, a medieval adventure, dealing with helping the poor. Clearly there are massive social and financial upheavals. So my further research would include finding a past era with similar events (war, recession, political unrest) to our present era. Finally, I would pick a current trend or interest (movie, space, travel, ect.) to blend with that. So when all that information is mixed together, it is my personal opinion we will not be seeing any significant new trends for 2011. When there is less money to spend, accessories will become very popular to change up the look of an outfit. Simplicity, clean lines most important, and basics will be the most popular purchase. Originality will emerge like a phoenix from the streets and take hold when the economy is stable.

Autumn/Winter 2010 Men's European Vs. Middle America

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What started as a tongue in cheek look at Walmart vs. the the runway - became an interesting study of similarities. My take of the Middle America Men's runway (Walmart), is currently right on "Target" with what is being shown on the European runway. Starting with the top row -clearly the Nomad influence is strong, all very Cavalli and Galliano. Leather and fur are definitely the hot trend for the cooler months. The Walmart model in the middle of the top row is a wearing very PC grey fake fur; nice to see that an option for the vegan crowd. I find it interesting that European designers aren't using any of the realistic looking faux furs as an option on the runway this season.

Continuing with men's collection -The second/middle row, again more influence of fur, as you can see- the fox fur hat draping down the back in the first photo. Clearly the Americans prefers the fur trapper-look. Think Davy Crocket and Daniel Boone . The E.U. collection from left to right, on the bottom row exhibits a generous fur dauntlessly thrown over one shoulder of the tux look, more refined than the U.S. Walmart look. The vintage-look Christmas sweater made a strong showing in the D&G collection in Europe. Since the Walmart men from U.S. are wearing a look with a androgynous edge, I used the Dolce & Gabbana Women's runway collection for a comparison as well (See my blog D&G Fall 2010 women). Here our male Walmart model was by far more daring than the European version, by wearing just heels with his snowflake sweater. Red for Winter! Again another trend that was hot for women at D&G for this Fall, but men are wearing the color in the U.S. For men, both E.U. and U.S. have black skirts and heels -as I mentioned in earlier blogs the Europeans are wearing hemlines longer. The American men are more optimistic (economically) showing shorter skirts for the winter. Like Europe, black leather will be important for cooler months . One stand-out outfit for Middle America Walmart, last photo middle row, was brown chaps with distinctive patches, pared with a two-toned pullover. This is the all adventure man: biker, carpenter, and cowboy. It evokes the "Jack of all Trades" look. I feel this is a unique American style and very Ralph Lauren . I think over the coming seasons we will be seeing more of these unique looks that are deeply rooted in our history and culture.

Spring/Summer 2010 Men's Fashion Trends

From the runways of Europe, Bible Belt America, and GQ magazine,

I bring you men’s Spring/Summer fashion 2010.

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The top row exhibits those wonderful wild prints that will be showing up at the high end stores soon! This season free yourself from concern, close your eyes and grab whatever. Embrace prints, mix and match, clash, three or four-color combinations, it all works this year. Note the white Mardi gras mask coming down runway top right. If you are a little shy about wearing these daring duds you can keep yourself a mystery from the world with this handy accessory. Finally short-shorts are back guys! Not since the early eighties, have we seen shorts so skimpy on men. Another 1980's flashback: wear bright popping colors, and yellow is a definite favorite. No need to be shy gentlemen, you wore it back then! Both sides of the pond are showing fedoras in coordinating colors. Don't put the boots away this Spring- note the edgy-look of mid calf galoshes and the pink patent leather knee high boots with the shorts. I believe Middle America might be ahead of the curve on this one. Shocking, Galliano hasn’t thought of this! Guys, if you feel your current shorts are a tad long, take note of the cuffs on the bottom of the red and denim shorts. If you are feeling the recession pinch, easy to update what you may already have in your closet. Tomorrow a look at Autumn/Winter trends for America vs. Europe 2010.