Creating Your Autumn Wardrobe

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You can have the latest Valentino runway look at a fraction of the cost . The red dress was shown for the Autumn 2010 runway. If you would like to create your own version, try a pattern from Butterick, Vogue or McCalls (center and right) to design your own red dress . Don’t know how to make bias ruffles to add onto a pattern without? Here are the directions:

vintage sewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-07.html

As for the wool for your dress, most fabric store won’t have wool in for a couple of months –try Trim Fabric –trimfabric.com . The company has red wool on sale for 9.95 a yard. For under $30 you could create this dress.

Valentino Red Hot Autumn 2010

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The Valentino Fall 2010 collection showed a glimmer of light shining in the direction of glamour , which is what the house is known for. Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pier Paolo Piccioli reined in the ruffles to put on a collection that was both sophisticated and youthful. The long red dress , top row left side, was spectacular and understated at the same time. The designing duo used ruffles in a complimentary and balanced manner here. No ruffled French poodles in-sight.

The bottom row was my least favorite from the collection because the creations were either out of balance or dumpy looking. The black dress second front, wraps across the front revealing the model's upper thigh in an unflattering way. If done correctly, that look can be sexy. However, if the cut is unattractive on a 6’2” size 2 model, one can only imagine how it will be on a young average 5’5” size 6 women. As for historical reference the photos on the bottom right shows 1880 and 1930, two eras locked in financial depressions. Both used ruffles generously as a cost effective detail, instead of lavish beading, lace, and trim.

Valentino- Make it Your Own for Spring

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The lace dress on the left is from the Spring 2010 Valentino runway. Working on a tight budget? Try these options- The middle photo is a dress from Urban Outfitters, but it looks as though the fit isn't great. The dress middle right, is a Butterick pattern number 4443 (hem shorter to match Valentino). Buy some interesting lace curtains at your local vintage store and make your own dress from them. Yes -that's what I said-buy curtains. Scarlet O'Hara's famous green dress was made out of curtains just in case you missed "Gone With The Wind".

Valentino -Hope Springs Eternal 2010

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After the abrupt firing of Alessandra Facchinetti last Spring, Valentino handed the reins of design over to Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pier Paolo Piccioli . The inspiration for this Spring collection was ethereal princess – a look that will appeal to a younger generation. First I will start with the positive: I liked everything on the top row, assuming the clientele who purchase these confections will wear nude body stockings under the fabulous sheer fabrics and lace. Already I have visions of inebriated celebrities fueling TMZ or the cover of Enquirer by letting it all hang out.

Overall I thought the collection was an overload of similar colors that are neither here, nor there. Additionally it’s a shame the models were told not to smile; only spoiled and pouty princesses don’t smile. Perhaps that’s who they were hoping to appeal to.

As far as the bottom row, ruffles used carefully can be beautiful and elegant the way a princess should look. But instead, many pieces in the collection came across as underage beauty queens (see the colorful photo bottom left in case you can’t find). This grey mess second from the left looks like a French poodle at a canine contest. For Chuiri and Piccioli, this was their first Spring collection at Valentino. I’m looking forward to commenting on their Fall 2010 collection.

Runway Predictions for 2011

Fashion direction has always hinged on government, economy, politics, and religion. With ten years into the new century, there has been a complete shift in the way business is done. The world has access to hyper-speed communication such as Twitter, and information that moves around the globe in minutes, instantly showing what direction the masses will gravitate towards. As for fashion designers, they must discern accurate social influences one year in advance. Six months later, a runway collection is presented, with the hope of course, it will click with the current social scene. Just a mere twenty five years ago, it would take an social idea or direction between two and twenty years to move around the globe. With that knowledge, it's quite understandable why fashion direction has taken on so many different looks this season. Skirts up, then down , military, medieval, 30's depression era, 1980's, bright colors, dark colors, you think of it, and it will show up. Worldwide economy is linked as much locally as it is globally. For example, California as an independent state is the eighth largest economy in the world. How the state is financially managed by government is very important to the United States and to the world. As for fashion, California is a media center and drives many trends. If I was gathering inspiration to design a Spring/Summer 2011 line, my small sampling of inspiration for social direction today it would read as follows: The world stock markets plunged amid the European announcement to bailout the Greek economy with $ 141b. The central bank in China has announced further tightening to slow the surging economy. Some private economists are predicting the American economy will show growth in the fourth quarter, while Europe’s economy is expected to remain in a recession through the end of 2010. The war in the Middle East continues with no solid signs of ending. There is civil unrest in Thailand and Greece, with both countries rioting against their government for different reasons. In film, Alice in Wonderland is currently the popular movie -fantasy genre. Robin Hood is about to be released, a medieval adventure, dealing with helping the poor. Clearly there are massive social and financial upheavals. So my further research would include finding a past era with similar events (war, recession, political unrest) to our present era. Finally, I would pick a current trend or interest (movie, space, travel, ect.) to blend with that. So when all that information is mixed together, it is my personal opinion we will not be seeing any significant new trends for 2011. When there is less money to spend, accessories will become very popular to change up the look of an outfit. Simplicity, clean lines most important, and basics will be the most popular purchase. Originality will emerge like a phoenix from the streets and take hold when the economy is stable.

Autumn/Winter 2010 Men's European Vs. Middle America

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What started as a tongue in cheek look at Walmart vs. the the runway - became an interesting study of similarities. My take of the Middle America Men's runway (Walmart), is currently right on "Target" with what is being shown on the European runway. Starting with the top row -clearly the Nomad influence is strong, all very Cavalli and Galliano. Leather and fur are definitely the hot trend for the cooler months. The Walmart model in the middle of the top row is a wearing very PC grey fake fur; nice to see that an option for the vegan crowd. I find it interesting that European designers aren't using any of the realistic looking faux furs as an option on the runway this season.

Continuing with men's collection -The second/middle row, again more influence of fur, as you can see- the fox fur hat draping down the back in the first photo. Clearly the Americans prefers the fur trapper-look. Think Davy Crocket and Daniel Boone . The E.U. collection from left to right, on the bottom row exhibits a generous fur dauntlessly thrown over one shoulder of the tux look, more refined than the U.S. Walmart look. The vintage-look Christmas sweater made a strong showing in the D&G collection in Europe. Since the Walmart men from U.S. are wearing a look with a androgynous edge, I used the Dolce & Gabbana Women's runway collection for a comparison as well (See my blog D&G Fall 2010 women). Here our male Walmart model was by far more daring than the European version, by wearing just heels with his snowflake sweater. Red for Winter! Again another trend that was hot for women at D&G for this Fall, but men are wearing the color in the U.S. For men, both E.U. and U.S. have black skirts and heels -as I mentioned in earlier blogs the Europeans are wearing hemlines longer. The American men are more optimistic (economically) showing shorter skirts for the winter. Like Europe, black leather will be important for cooler months . One stand-out outfit for Middle America Walmart, last photo middle row, was brown chaps with distinctive patches, pared with a two-toned pullover. This is the all adventure man: biker, carpenter, and cowboy. It evokes the "Jack of all Trades" look. I feel this is a unique American style and very Ralph Lauren . I think over the coming seasons we will be seeing more of these unique looks that are deeply rooted in our history and culture.

Spring/Summer 2010 Men's Fashion Trends

From the runways of Europe, Bible Belt America, and GQ magazine,

I bring you men’s Spring/Summer fashion 2010.

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The top row exhibits those wonderful wild prints that will be showing up at the high end stores soon! This season free yourself from concern, close your eyes and grab whatever. Embrace prints, mix and match, clash, three or four-color combinations, it all works this year. Note the white Mardi gras mask coming down runway top right. If you are a little shy about wearing these daring duds you can keep yourself a mystery from the world with this handy accessory. Finally short-shorts are back guys! Not since the early eighties, have we seen shorts so skimpy on men. Another 1980's flashback: wear bright popping colors, and yellow is a definite favorite. No need to be shy gentlemen, you wore it back then! Both sides of the pond are showing fedoras in coordinating colors. Don't put the boots away this Spring- note the edgy-look of mid calf galoshes and the pink patent leather knee high boots with the shorts. I believe Middle America might be ahead of the curve on this one. Shocking, Galliano hasn’t thought of this! Guys, if you feel your current shorts are a tad long, take note of the cuffs on the bottom of the red and denim shorts. If you are feeling the recession pinch, easy to update what you may already have in your closet. Tomorrow a look at Autumn/Winter trends for America vs. Europe 2010.